If you’re trying to improve stubborn dark spots or post-acne marks, you’ve probably heard the term “hyperpigmentation.” But what actually causes hyperpigmentation to form? And why does it seem to stick around for so long?

“The answer lies in a natural process called melanogenesis, or how your skin creates melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color,” says Beth Bialko, Bioelements Senior Director of Education. “When this process goes into overdrive, it can lead to visible dark spots.”

By understanding how melanogenesis works, you can target it more effectively and treat hyperpigmentation at the source. Let’s dive in.

What causes hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation happens when something triggers excess melanin production, such as: 

• UV exposure

• Breakouts

• Inflammation 

• Skin injuries

• Hormones

Your skin sees these triggers as a form of stress and responds by revving up the melanocyte cells, the ones responsible for making melanin, causing them to become overactive and produce more pigment than usual.

These signals set off melanogenesis, your skin’s pigment production line. And when melanin builds up in one area – like a healing blemish or sun-damaged spot – it can leave behind lingering discoloration.

The good news? You can interrupt melanogenesis at several key points with the right mix of ingredients.

What are the 3 stages of melanin production (and what to use at each one)?

Hyperpigmentation doesn’t happen all at once. Melanogenesis has three stages, and different ingredients work best at each step. Here’s how to treat it more strategically:

Stage 1: pre-synthesis inhibition

This is where hyperigmentation all begins. Pre-synthesis inhibition is about calming (and trying to stop) the initial triggers that ramp up melanin production.

Best ingredients to prevent dark spots from forming: 

• Vitamin C derivatives like sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside act as antioxidants, and when paired with vitamin E, they’re even more potent.
  

• Anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide, lipoic acid and tranexamic acid help suppress tyrosinase. Tranexamic acid is especially effective at treating dark spots and hyperpigmentation. It works by interfering with plasminogen activity in keratinocytes, which reduces tyrosinase activity and inflammatory signals.
  

Stage 2: synthesis inhibition

Here, the enzyme tyrosinase converts tyrosine into melanin. If this step isn’t interrupted, pigment forms and begins to accumulate. This stage is where we go straight to the source and target the tyrosinase enzyme directly.

Best ingredients to prevent and target hyperpigmentation: 

• Phenylethyl resorcinol and α-arbutin compete with the enzyme’s activity to suppress melanin formation.
  

• Niacinamide and licorice root extracts work to inhibit the enzyme from being produced in the first place.
  

• Stable ROS scavengers also help by reducing oxidative stress that can stimulate pigmentation.
  

Stage 3: post-synthesis inhibition

Even after melanin is produced, the process isn’t over. Now, the goal is to stop it from being transferred to skin cells, as well as naturally shed the pigmented cells that are already there.

Best ingredients to help treat current dark spots: 

• Antioxidants like niacinamide and vitamin C can help block melanin transfer.
  

• Licorice root extract helps inhibit melanosome maturation, so pigment doesn’t make it to the surface.
  

• Lastly, lactic acid, bakuchiol and glycolic acid all promote cell renewal, helping the skin shed pigmented cells more quickly and evenly.
  

Fading hyperpigmentation takes the right mix of ingredients, chosen with skin type and sensitivity in mind, and a methodical approach that supports, rather than stresses, the skin. When done right, exfoliation doesn’t just resurface, it transforms.

Looking for a routine that works with your skin, not against it? Start with progressive exfoliation, layer in melanin inhibitors and let skin renewal do the rest.

FAQ: Dark spots + hyperpigmentation

Q: Why do I get dark spots after a breakout?
When your skin experiences inflammation (like from acne), it can trigger excess melanin production, leading to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

Q: What causes hyperpigmentation to get worse?
Sun exposure, picking at blemishes and harsh exfoliants can all worsen hyperpigmentation by stimulating melanin production or damaging the skin barrier.

Q: What ingredients actually help fade dark spots?
Look for proven ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, phenylethyl resorcinol, glycolic acid, and tranexamic acid. These target pigment at different stages and help brighten skin over time.
Pro pick: vc10 dark spot solution

Q: How long does it take to fade hyperpigmentation?
It depends on the depth of the pigment and your skin, but people can often see noticeable improvement within several weeks of consistent use with the right routine.

Q: What’s the best way to prevent new dark spots?
Use daily SPF (even indoors), avoid picking at your skin and include calming, antioxidant-rich ingredients in your routine.