Acne comes in many forms, and knowing the type you’re dealing with is the key to treating it effectively and preventing future breakouts. Whether spotting a stubborn blackhead or battling painful cysts, understanding the difference between non-inflamed and inflamed acne is your first step to clearer skin. Here’s what you need to know, how to treat at home, and when to call in the pros. 

Non-inflamed acne 

Non-inflamed acne, also known as comedonal acne, is subtle yet stubborn. It doesn’t cause redness or swelling but it can still affect the texture of your skin.

What it looks like 

Blackheads: These are open comedones where a plug of oil and dead skin has oxidized, giving it a dark appearance. They may be flat or slightly raised. 

Whiteheads: These are closed comedones or small bumps with oil and dead skin. They typically look flesh-toned or have a tiny white cap but lack redness and swelling. Whiteheads are sometimes mistaken for milia, which are small, hard bumps caused by trapped keratin rather than clogged pores. To tell the difference, gently press on the bump – whiteheads are softer and may have a visible white center, while milia are firm, pearl-like bumps. 

Causes

• Excess oil production 

• Clogged pores due to makeup, sweat or dead skin buildup

• Hormonal changes, especially during puberty 

How to treat

For non-inflamed acne, an expert, clinical at-home skin care routine is often enough to deliver results. Look for products with salicylic acid or azelaic acid to clear pores and prevent buildup. Gentle chemical exfoliation and a lightweight moisturizer can help maintain balance without clogging your skin further. 

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Inflamed acne 

Inflamed acne goes deeper than the surface, often bringing forth redness, swelling and discomfort. These are your body’s responses to clogged pores that have become infected with bacteria. 

Types of inflamed acne 

Papules: Small, red bumps that feel firm and may be tender to the touch. There is no visible pus.

Pustules: These are similar to papules, but have a white or yellow center filled with pus. They;re often surrounded by a red halo and may be painful.

Nodules and cysts: Severe forms of inflamed acne that form deep under the skin. Nodules are hard, painful lumps without a visible head, while cysts are filled with pus and can feel soft. Nodules and cysts require professional treatment and should not be attempted with over-the-counter products. 

Causes

• Hormonal imbalances, particularly during pregnancy, perimenopause or stress. 

• Bacterial infections in clogged pores

• Genetics, which can make skin more prone to severe acne 

How to treat 

When to treat at home

Mild to moderate inflamed acne (small papules or pustules) can be managed with the right products and consistency. Here’s what to focus on: a barrier-friendly cleanser, a non-drying serum, a gentle, leave-on exfoliator and a fast-acting spot treatment. This quartet of acne-fighting formulations can help deliver visible results and get you on the fast track to clearer skin. 

When to see a skin care professional 

For severely inflamed acne (painful pustules, nodules or cysts) that won’t get away with at-home treatments, consult a dermatologist or licensed esthetician. A professional can provide advanced options, like prescription medications, pro-level treatments or light therapy, to target acne at its root.
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